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Chef Flavio Solórzano of Señorio de Sulco

Chef Flavio Solórzano of Señorio de Sulco


Flavio Solórzano makes a mean ceviche. The head chef at Lima’s Señoria de Sulco in Miraflores, Solórzano is unashamedly biased when it comes to the world-renowed classic: Peru makes the best.
There’s something to that claim. Given the coastal treat of both warm water and cold water seafood, the unparalleled chiles grown in inland Peru, and salt harvested from Incan beds in the mountains, it’s hard to replicate the quintessential Peruvian ceviche. But here are a few tricks Americans can keep in mind when they attempt a recreation.
First: Keep it simple. No tomatoes, cucumbers, or other interloping extras. The best ceviche, says Solórzano, is made of five things: fish, salt, lime juice, red onion, and chile.
Second: Pick the best fish. This is tricky, as properly prepared ceviche produces milky leche de tigre when the salt and lime juice break down the proteins in the fish. That means the fish has to have “raw muscle”—a characteristic of some flounder, mahi mahi, and sole. Also, says Solórzano, use a fillet from the back of the fish and cut against the grain into small bite-sized portions.
Third: Limes used in Peruvian ceviche (limón) are distinctly different than what’s commonly used in the U.S. Key limes are close, but are sweeter than what you’d find in South America. Whatever you pick, it has to be organic and balance acidity with a touch of sweetness. Generally, three small limes are juiced for every serving of ceviche.
Fourth: Red onion should be fresh and pink—and not sweat. If it sweats, it’s old; throw it out. Once you slice it—thinly, mind you—soak in room temperature water until you’re ready to use it. This prevents oxidation.
Fifth: Use ají chile—the freshest you can find. And don’t just cut it up. Smash it with the side of a knife first, then thinly slice. This produces a more aromatic product.
Traditional Peruvian ceviche

Traditional Peruvian ceviche with local corn and ají chile


Sixth: Process is everything. Toss the cubed fish with the salt first, then the lime juice. Mix gently, and allow the leche de tigre to form slowly (30 seconds or so). Taste. Add salt or lime juice as needed to balance flavors. When balanced, add a splash of red onion water to mellow the ceviche a bit. Toss in red onion and chopped chile and serve immediately. (Solórzano is not one to use the traditional sweet potato as an accompaniment, but feel free to include it—it helps cut the heat. You can also serve it with fresh corn.)
Did you know? There’s such a thing as hot ceviche. Originally made by the aboriginal Andean peoples, this twist on the classic uses beef tenderloin, thinly pounded, mixed with hot oil, milk, lime juice, salt, garlic, and ginger. At Señorio de Sulco, Solórzano finishes the dish with achiote oil.
Hot ceviche

Hot ceviche, made with beef tenderloin, hot oil, milk, lime juice, salt, and achiote oil


This is one article in a series on Peruvian culture and dining. Look for more at diningout.com.
By Jeffrey Steen, Managing Editor

Lido - The Standard Miami Beach
Labor Day Weekend is finally here, and that means no work, sleeping in, and (like any long weekend in Miami) extra beach days. But as any beach-goer knows, sometimes you need to take a break from the heat and recharge and refuel with good food and drink. The hard part? Deciding where to go.
That’s where we come in. Miami Beach is sprawling, so depending where you are, here are some of our favorite haunts to break up your beach day and grab a bite to eat:
SOUTH OF FIFTH
Izzy’s Fish & Oyster
If you’re lounging on South of Fifth, make lunch a little extra special with fresh, New England seafood from none other than Chef/Owner Jamie DeRosa, of Izzy’s Fish & Oyster {423 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach; 305.397.8843}. Known for his lobster rolls, clam chowder, Parker House rolls and fried clams, this weekend, it’s all about brunch and oysters. Buy a bottle of wine or champagne, and get the locale’s raved-about oysters for just $1 each. Plus, this weekend only, it’ll be serving up brunch Friday through Monday, meaning you can get Chef’s delicious Lobster Poutine with waffle fries, cave aged cheddar and smoked bacon four days in a row.
SOUTH BEACH
LT Steak & Seafood
If you’re staying around Ocean Drive, look no further than The Betsy Hotel. There, award-winning Chef Laurent Tourondel recently-opened his American concept, LT Steak & Seafood {1440 Ocean Drive, South Beach; 305.673.0044}, with a seasonally inspired menu influenced by the vibrant energy of Miami. Order appetizers for the table – like The Betsy Crabcake with smoked piquillo-paprika and market greens, or a half-dozen Kumamoto or Kusshi raw bar oysters – and follow it up with the Lemon Poached Lobster Salad with avocado, crispy kale, mache, asparagus and grapefruit oil. Then go back to the sand, close your eyes, and let the food coma sink in.
THE VENETIAN ISLANDS
Lido Bayside Grill, The Standard Spa, Miami Beach
For those island-seekers hanging out on the Venetian, there are few places more iconic than The Standard Spa, Miami Beach. Lido Bayside Grille {40 Island Avenue, Miami Beach; 786.245.0880}, the haunt’s main watering hole, keeps its menu healthy, sun-kissed, wholesome and natural, just like the traditional Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. Opt for Executive Chef Mark Zeitouni’s raw vegan Living Lasagna, or his Spicy Tuna Poke with avocado, macadamia nuts, Dalkon sprouts, green onion, cucumber, quinoa, sesame seeds and ponzu. If you want something even lighter, the Avocado Toast with multigrain bread, avocado lime salt, greens and smoked salmon is always a good choice, as is The Standard Smoothie: a refreshing blend of fresh strawberries, banana and yogurt. If that doesn’t make you feel good inside and out, we don’t know what will.
MID-BEACH
Market at EDITION
If you haven’t experienced the cooking styles of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Market at EDITION {2901 Collins Ave, Miami Beach; 786.257.4600}, his Miami casual-chic option, is a good place to start. An imaginative reinvention of the classic 24-hour Miami Beach coffee shop, Market is a modern-day take on the great, centuries-old Mediterranean food bazaars. It’s part patisserie, part boulangerie, part salumeria and part open-air café, and serves everything from gourmet pizzas and pastas, charcuterie, and sandwiches, to juices, smoothies, wines, and delectable desserts. At lunchtime, get the Artisanal Salumi and Cheese Board with pickles, fruit and nut bread – it’s more impressive than you think – or the house-roasted turkey sandwich with local bacon, arugula and jalapeños. Pair it with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc or one of Jean-George’s special cocktails, like the Raspberry Lychee Bellini with La Gioiosa Prosecco, lychee and raspberry, and return to the beach happier than when you left.
Happy dining!
By Jennifer Agress | Miami Editor

Cusquena Beer
While the craft beer movement might be consuming the American market, it’s a different story in Peru. Here, the sudsy pride from jungle to coast is indisputable: Cusqueña. From the sides of restaurants on the sloping, cobbled streets of Cusco to the electronic marquis of Lacormar mall in Lima, the Cusqueña brand is everywhere.
But why is this simply crafted brew so popular? And how does a country so rich in culinary traditions incorporate this longstanding beer into its mealtime culture?
First, a bit of history. It all began with two foreign brewers—Jakob Backus and John Howard Johnston—who emigrated to Lima, Peru in the 1800s. In the late 1880s, they incorporated as The Backus and Johnston’s Brewing Company, and began brewing the country’s flagship beers. After a flood of British investment, Johnston left Peru, and the company, in 1898. A year later, Backus died. The Brits continued to own and run the company until the mid-1950s, when assets were returned to Peru. In 1994, the company acquired longstanding Peruvian competitors National Beer Company which produced Pilsen Callao beer. After 2000, acquisition of Backus and Johnston by SABMiller made the brewery one of the most significant features in the SABMiller portfolio—a collection of beers that now includes Cusqueña, Pilsen Callao, Cristal, San Juan, and a handful of other labels.
In the Backus family of beers, Cusqueña is considered a premium brew, offered in four year-round varieties—golden lager (dorada), wheat (trigo), red lager (rojo), and dark lager (negra)—and one seasonal variety—a uniquely Peruvian beer brewed with pearl quinoa instead of wheat.
When compared with its sister beers in the Backus portfolio, there are a few things that make Cusqueña stand out from the crowd. First, it’s brewed with top-notch ingredients sourced locally and regionally whenever possible. And as anyone who has brewed beer knows, water makes the flavor—a flavor that can’t be duplicated outside of Peru.
Second, each variety is crafted with a nuanced palate. From the polestar dorada, which layers grassy undertones with a vague maltiness, to the specialty quinoa that offers surprising notes of orange and tropical citrus, these beers are not one-dimensional. Easy to drink? Yes. But not boring.

Cusqueña Beer with classic Lomo Saltado

Cusqueña beer with classic Lomo Saltado


Third, the brewmeisters at production breweries across Peru—located in five cities across the country, including in Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa—brew with food in mind. While many large production beers are crafted simply to be enjoyed solo, Cusqueña thinks about how their varieties will marry with classic Peruvian cuisine. Not surprisingly, they manage that well, with apt pairings across the flavor palette of the entire country. And if a beer pairs well with a nuanced dish, it often goes well in the dish. Brewery conversations with many high-profile Peruvian chefs, including Chef Flavio Solorzáno of El Señorio de Sulco in Lima and Chef Manuel Córdova of MAP Cafe in Cusco, have opened the door to cooking with Cusqueña and alongside Cusqueña. Much like wine, the beer’s dynamic flavor profiles bring new dimensions to meals in restaurants across the country.
At the moment, Cusqueña is available only on the eastern seaboard in the U.S., but the hopes are to expand distribution so that American markets get to enjoy the same beer that has captivated Peru for decades. And with that introduction, Peruvian food is bound to follow—a palate-astounding journey that will re-craft our appreciation for beer and South American cuisine.
To get a taste of this premium cerveza, visit cusquena.com and look for recipes at diningout.com made with and for this scrumptious South American brew.
By Jeffrey Steen, Managing Editor

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