If you didn’t know it was there, you’d probably miss it. But Sunny’s {1500 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305.531.3935}, a small enclave tucked inside The Hall, a revived 1940s Art Deco hotel that opened this past November, won’t be secret for long.

The creative genius behind the food and beverage operations of the hotel is Chef Spike Mendelsohn of “Top Chef” fame. Though Sunny’s is named after Mendelsohn’s grandfather, it’s a fitting moniker for a place that reflects the vibe that is synonymous with the Sunshine State.

The restaurant itself is “so Miami”—but not the Miami of exclusive clubs, see-and-be-seen events, or over-the-top trendiness. This is the Miami of lazy beach days and tropical-chic glamour, with a “come as you are” attitude that’s a direct reflection of Mendelsohn’s easy-going personality.

The main dining area is the courtyard, which includes patio-style furniture and a colorful juice bar, which is particularly busy in the morning, when locals and hotel guests stop by to get their fresh juice or coffee fix for the day. The adjacent dining room features an elegant bar and long, cushioned seating along the walls.

The menu, too, is a reflection of the laid-back chef, an avid surfer who has seemingly effortlessly concocted innovative twists on classic seaside-inspired dishes, combining ingredients almost as whimsically as a painter combines colors and brushstrokes.

Mendelsohn, who is in Miami about one week out of every month, was our culinary guide for the evening, and served us some of his favorite and most popular menu items. First up: the Head High Poke Bowl, made with soy-marinated tuna (which the chef had caught himself during a fishing trip earlier that day), Maui onions, sea beans, toasted sesame, and puffed rice.

The meal could have ended there and we would have been completely satisfied. But it continued on with the Caprese of Juicy Melons with balled cantaloupe and honeydew, heirloom tomatoes, and succulent Burrata cheese. We also tried the Charred Octopus and Garden and Crispy Buffalo Frog Legs, which we were pleasantly surprised to discover that, in the words of the chef, tasted “just like chicken.”

Next up: the Hot in Herre Chicken and Waffles, with fried chicken served alongside fresh-from-the-iron waffles topped with powdered sugar and maple syrup, followed by the perfectly cooked Panther Coffee Spike Strip Steak, served with shishito peppers and yucca steak fries (another standout!).

And finally, the meal ended with the Bonfire Beach S’mores, marshmallows served with Hershey’s chocolate and graham crackers—and a much-needed side of napkins. “The best part of being an adult is being able to play with your food,” Mendelsohn said as he brought the tray of gooey goodness to our table. And to that, we say, “Amen!”

—Sherri Balefsky | Miami Editor