Getting to Know Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten
When it comes to the food world, French-American Michelin-star chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, trendsetter, and all-around nice guy, Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has done it all. And here in Miami, he's blessed us with three of his
When it comes to the food world, French-American Michelin-star chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, trendsetter, and all-around nice guy, Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has done it all. And here in Miami, he’s blessed us with three of his mouthwatering concepts at The Miami Beach EDITION: Matador Room, Market at EDITION, and Tropicale.
So when we heard “JGV” was going to be in town for the 18th-Annual Food Network & Cooking Channel South Beach Wine & Food Festival (SOBEWFF), we had to sit down with him and find out about his career, his childhood, his passion in the kitchen, and how he became one of the world’s best chefs.
Here’s what he had to say:
Tell us about your chef journey. How did it start?
My journey started about 45 years ago, in 1973, and it hasn’t stopped. I started when I was sixteen, when I took an apprenticeship in Alsace, France, where I come from. I was lucky enough to start in a three-star Michelin restaurant, and then I went to a second three-star Michelin restaurant in the South of France. I ended up getting my first real chef job in 1980, in Bangkok.
Did you ever consider another career?
I was actually supposed to be an engineer. My grandfather worked in coal, and my father took over his heating company, where he was doing central and solar heating. He sent me to engineering college and I hated it. I was spending my days smelling like gasoline, and I really wanted to smell chicken, potato, and cabbage! For my 16th birthday, my parents took me to a three-star restaurant. It was my first high-end dining experience, and that was that. I knew that was what I wanted to do.
Were you always a master in the kitchen?
When I was a kid, I was doing all the birthdays for my brothers, sisters and cousins. I was born an entertainer, but not on stage; the kitchen is where I was most comfortable. It’s kind of form of entertaining, you know? In the beginning, I had no idea about food, but I would organize the lighting, the music, and the mood. Today, I realize it was all part of it.
Looking back on your chef career, what was your most defining moment?
I owe a lot to New York. When I arrived in New York in 1986, there was a whole new movement of food happening. I was lucky to be part of new wave of food in America. When I first got there, there were only a few markets and they only had the basics. Now there’s a good local market in every city. New York only had a few Japanese places at the time, a few places where you could get sushi, and some Italian places; but maybe not the best food in the world. When I arrived, I was part of a group of chefs who changed the city into what it is. We had a good time, and I never stopped. Now we’re up to 38 restaurants, and we’re still having a good time!
Have you always worked with hotels?
My first job in 1980 was at the Oriental Hotel, in Bangkok, so I’ve been very familiar with hotels. I love to work with hotels. People stay with you! It’s not just a two-hour lunch or dinner and they go away. At hotels, you get to pamper them for a couple days, and I love that.
What made you want to bring some of your restaurants to Miami?
Ian Schrager actually approached me about it. He was building The Miami Beach EDITION, and he said, ‘Do you want to do something here?’ and I said, ‘I would love to.’ So we did Market, which is a little bit like my ABC Kitchen, in New York; and then for the main restaurant, I wanted to do something Latino to bring in a touch of Miami. We put Tropicale outside, and it’s all worked out very well. Here we are, five years later, still kicking, still improving, and still trying new dishes.
You spent five years in Asia, which you’ve always said changed your cooking. How so?
I was from France, so I didn’t know about lemongrass, chili, or ginger, and I’d never had spicy food a day in my life. The only spices we ever used were salt and pepper. There were no Asian ingredients in the region I grew up in. It was all cabbage, potato, and foie gras. The food was good, but it was so one-dimensional there. By the time I got to Bangkok, I felt like Christopher Columbus discovering a new world! I got to start adding a lot of sexy stuff to my food.
You’ve set a lot of trends in the kitchen. What’s next for the food world?
Plant-based. Two weeks ago, people wanted a radish. Two years ago, it was a steak. It’s all about plant-based now. I’m not 100% vegetarian, but I eat it twice a week—my restaurant, ABCV, is all vegan. I think this new generation has a new energy about plant-based food. It’s good to eat a steak every once in awhile (I love my steak!), but you just have everything in moderation.
Tell us your must-have kitchen tool.
Probably a microplane—you can do a zest of citrus, truffle, cheese, dry spices, and even ginger. I can do all of that.
What’s your favorite late-night snack?
Chocolate. Milk chocolate. I eat my chocolate after I brush my teeth, because then I wake up in the morning and still have the taste of chocolate in my mouth. It gives new meaning to ‘sweet dreams.’
What do you make for dinner when you’re at home?
I make pasta! I boil water and throw my pasta in there with a whole egg, so it cooks at the same time. I drain the pasta and add pepper, Parmesan, and butter, and then I have a soft-boiled egg on top. One pot. It takes five to seven minutes to cook the pasta. It’s my quick dinner before I go to sleep with my chocolate.
Happy dining!
By Jennifer Agress | Miami Editor