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There exists a place in Miami where in-the-know locals go to enjoy authentic Mexican cuisine; and, no—it’s NOT Chipotle! It’s Cantina La Veinte {495 Brickell Avenue, Brickell; 786.623.6135}, a hidden gem located at the Icon condominium building that’s been taking the Downtown/Brickell restaurant scene by storm.

Interior

Helming the restaurant is Executive Chef Santiago Gomez, a Mexico City-born gourmand who brings a playful yet sophisticated approach to traditional Mexican cuisine. The 32-year-old chef spent ample time working at Nobu, a regular of which happened to be Alberto Cinta, CEO and co-founder of Cinbersol Group, Mexico’s largest hospitality group. Over the years, Chef Gomez worked on various restaurant concepts for Cinbersol, which eventually led to the opening of Cantina La Numero 20 in Mexico City. The concept was so popular that it began a multi-city expansion, including its July 2014 opening in Miami.

Chef Santiago Gomez cantina la veinte

DiningOut recently was invited to an exclusive media tasting dinner hosted by Chef Gomez himself along with Don Julio tequila. The food was excellent and the décor and quality of service were equally impressive. We caught up with the chef a few days later to chat.

1. Tell us a bit about your background. What made you decide to be a chef?
My interest for cooking sparked while I was working as a delivery man for a local seafood distributor. Delivering seafood to the restaurants gave me the opportunity to meet the best chefs in town and walk around their kitchens. This eventually inspired me to go to culinary school.

2. How did you end up working with Cinbersol Group?
I was working at Nobu Miami and Cinbersol Group hired the executive pastry chef, who soon brought me to the group. I started working as a sous chef at an Asian restaurant concept and from there, I started creating La Veinte’s concept.

3. Can you explain the overall concept? What made the brand decide to expand to Miami?
Cantina La Veinte is a 100-percent Mexican restaurant, from the owner, the designer, the architect, and the chef. The idea was to re-create the traditional cantina concept from Mexico and bring it to the next level of Mexican cuisine. Miami was a great spot to take it internationally because of all the Latin people who wanted a place with good Mexican food, which included great ambience and, of course, authentic margaritas.

4. How is the restaurant’s concept reflected on the menu?
We use the freshest ingredients from Mexico. We have items on the menu from all around the country and we want to continue to use traditional recipes and flavors—we want people to know the true taste of Mexico! Additionally, we want to show the evolution of Mexican cuisine while trying to reflect what is happening nowadays in Mexico.

5. What are your personal favorite menu items?
The Soft Shell Crab Tacos with jalapeño sauce, the traditional Cochinita Pibil (Yucatán-style), the Sweet Corn (crab, smoked mayo), and the Tuna Tostadas.

6. How does Miami influence the creation of new menu items, ingredients, etc.?
We use a lot of seafood here in Miami. We adapt to the seasons and are always seeking new products to use on our menu. We are constantly looking for trendy dishes in Miami, while giving them our own Mexican twist.

7. What local chefs or celebrity chefs do you admire?
Chef Thomas Buckley (Nobu), Chef Jose Mendin (Pubbelly), and Chef Michelle Bernstein (Cena by Michy).

8. What might surprise visitors about Cantina La Veinte if they are coming for the first time?
The art is amazing, from the high ceilings to the crafts on the walls, to the kitchen having an open space, which is the first thing that customers see—especially while fresh tortillas are being made in the rotary comal!

9. What does the future hold for Cantina La Veinte?
In September 2016, we are opening a high-end taqueria with traditional and creative tacos. It will be called “Farm to Taco” and will be located in the Brickell City Centre. We are also currently looking for spaces in New York and Vegas in hopes of expanding there.

10. Do you have a favorite food or food guilty pleasure?
I can’t get enough of raw fish—however, it’s all about the product!

—Sherri Balefsky | Miami Editor