Horseradish is the cantankerous uncle of the mustard family. It’s wrinkled and tough, it thrives in harsh weather, and it’s incredibly stubborn. Wherever you plant it, it’s there to stay, and it will even bully nearby plants out of existence if you let it. But this summer, those who like a little heat on their hot dog or hamburger will happily break out the spreadable version of this spicy root. They might even end up healthier for it—horseradish has been used to treat a variety of ailments since the Middle Ages, and nowadays it’s believed to have cancer-fighting properties. So don’t be afraid of its curmudgeonly looks. Try a little horseradish in your Bloody Mary, atop your steak, or over a summer salad—or, if you’re feeling really adventurous, add a dash or two to your vanilla ice cream.