Stubborn Seed: Magic on a Plate
Impressive from start to finish There’s only one word to describe an experience at Stubborn Seed: magical. The restaurant, which has fed the South of Fifth masses for over two years now, is helmed by
Impressive from start to finish
There’s only one word to describe an experience at Stubborn Seed: magical. The restaurant, which has fed the South of Fifth masses for over two years now, is helmed by Top Chef season 13 winner Jeremy Ford. Ford, who has worked under culinary greats like Jean-Georges Vongerichten, is cooking up delicious cuisine that shows why he’s one of the most esteemed chefs in the scene.
Dinner at the 70ish-seat restaurant is intimate — you’re likely to encounter plenty of couples during your visit, along with a few larger parties. All are welcome, though, as Ford and his team make dishes that are equally innovative and approachable; everyone from food critics to curious diners should leave happy.
At Stubborn Seed, guests have the option of ordering a la carte or choosing from two tasting menus (five courses or eight courses) that promise surprises. That said, we opted to “choose our adventure” with a few — very tasty — recommendations from our helpful server.
Speaking of service, the staff does not miss a beat; water glasses were constantly refilled before getting too low, and someone was always touching our table and the tables around us; in a city where service can be lacking, that’s a welcome sight.
But back to the food: yowza. Diners were treated to a complimentary round of pumpkin soup, croquettes and oysters to start the meal, plus bread service that included a flavorful garbanzo chili dip. Then the real fun began with items like kombu-charred octopus and warm celery root, two dishes that should be a staple of any meal here.
The former with its guajillo chili and garlic puree is punchy, making for a memorably yummy bite each time. Meanwhile, the celery root’s presentation will have you salivating before the first bite. Surrounded by crackling maitake mushroom and a creamy mustard, it’s a beauty — and one that tastes as good (if not better) than it looks.
Also, we need to talk about the lavash. At $8, it’s easily the lowest-priced snack on the menu. Don’t let the price fool you: It’s the restaurant’s sleeper hit. Chicken liver butter and smoked chili jam is really all there is to this flatbread, and that’s all it needs; the amount of flavor packed into this bite is insane. With a price like that, you’d be foolish not to order it.
Larger plates also dazzle. A juicy Bell & Evans chicken with pomme puree is filling and hits the spot — this is chicken done right. Slow cooked beef cheek with white truffle grits is another highlight that commands its premium; the richness and depth of flavor is unlike anything we’ve encountered.
Ensuring your meal ends on a sweet note is pastry chef Dallas Wynne’s assortment of treats. If it’s your first time here, order the famous snickerdoodle cookies. They may not sound as exciting as other offerings, but you’ll be singing a different tune fast once you taste the valrhona gianduja. Seasonal delights like honey baked pears and espresso panna cotta help us forget that seasons don’t exist in Miami, and we’re grateful to Wynne for the escape.
All in all, Jeremy Ford and his team have crafted a stellar dining experience from start to finish. The service is impeccable, the food is exceptional (and Instagrammable), and the place is intimate — you feel like part of something special when you’re there. Few restaurants leave you not only feeling satisfied with your meal, but also feeling good. Stubborn Seed is one of them.
101 Washington Avenue
Miami Beach, FL 33139
(786) 322-5211
By Geoffrey Anderson Jr., a contributing writer