Chef Flavio Solórzano of Señorio de Sulco
Flavio Solórzano makes a mean ceviche. The head chef at Lima’s Señoria de Sulco in Miraflores, Solórzano is unashamedly biased when it comes to the world-renowed classic: Peru makes the best.
There’s something to that claim. Given the coastal treat of both warm water and cold water seafood, the unparalleled chiles grown in inland Peru, and salt harvested from Incan beds in the mountains, it’s hard to replicate the quintessential Peruvian ceviche. But here are a few tricks Americans can keep in mind when they attempt a recreation.
First: Keep it simple. No tomatoes, cucumbers, or other interloping extras. The best ceviche, says Solórzano, is made of five things: fish, salt, lime juice, red onion, and chile.
Second: Pick the best fish. This is tricky, as properly prepared ceviche produces milky leche de tigre when the salt and lime juice break down the proteins in the fish. That means the fish has to have “raw muscle”—a characteristic of some flounder, mahi mahi, and sole. Also, says Solórzano, use a fillet from the back of the fish and cut against the grain into small bite-sized portions.
Third: Limes used in Peruvian ceviche (limón) are distinctly different than what’s commonly used in the U.S. Key limes are close, but are sweeter than what you’d find in South America. Whatever you pick, it has to be organic and balance acidity with a touch of sweetness. Generally, three small limes are juiced for every serving of ceviche.
Fourth: Red onion should be fresh and pink—and not sweat. If it sweats, it’s old; throw it out. Once you slice it—thinly, mind you—soak in room temperature water until you’re ready to use it. This prevents oxidation.
Fifth: Use ají chile—the freshest you can find. And don’t just cut it up. Smash it with the side of a knife first, then thinly slice. This produces a more aromatic product.
Traditional Peruvian ceviche with local corn and ají chile
Sixth: Process is everything. Toss the cubed fish with the salt first, then the lime juice. Mix gently, and allow the leche de tigre to form slowly (30 seconds or so). Taste. Add salt or lime juice as needed to balance flavors. When balanced, add a splash of red onion water to mellow the ceviche a bit. Toss in red onion and chopped chile and serve immediately. (Solórzano is not one to use the traditional sweet potato as an accompaniment, but feel free to include it—it helps cut the heat. You can also serve it with fresh corn.)
Did you know? There’s such a thing as hot ceviche. Originally made by the aboriginal Andean peoples, this twist on the classic uses beef tenderloin, thinly pounded, mixed with hot oil, milk, lime juice, salt, garlic, and ginger. At Señorio de Sulco, Solórzano finishes the dish with achiote oil.
Hot ceviche, made with beef tenderloin, hot oil, milk, lime juice, salt, and achiote oil
This is one article in a series on Peruvian culture and dining. Look for more at diningout.com.
By Jeffrey Steen, Managing Editor
